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Notebook & Loose Notes - Patterns for 'Socks' & Other Clothes, Knitting Machine, Flat-bed, 'Preciosa', Wertheim, 1910 Document Reg. No: HT 32918

Summary:
Notebook and loose notes of patterns for use with the hand-powered flat-bed 'Preciosa' knitting machine manufactured by Wertheim (Germany) and retailed in Melbourne by Hugo Wertheim.
Description:
Notebook and loose notes, all in same format with pages lined on both sides and stapled (or have been) on side. All are yellowed, although some considerably darker, suggesting they may have come from another notebook or had a different pattern of use. The pages contain extensive hand-written patterns for a range of clothing. One page appears to be a cover for some of the patterns, and is labelled 'Socks / Miss R. Fisher / "Alisdale" / Yarragon'. Patterns following include 'Soldier's Stocking 4 ply', 'Soldier's Stocking Tops 48 Needles', 'Soldiers Long Sox 3 Ply', 'Man's Sock', 'Red Cross Golf Stocking', 'Ladies Stocking', etc. Some appear to be for clients, such as 'Mrs Farmers', 'Jack', 'Rodney' and 'Jean'. Of those pages still stapled, the orientation of the writing changes at the centre, and the book is read upside down, starting with 'Lady's Singlet'. This section includes a price list. A single loose black notebook cover accompanies the pages.
Statement Of Significance:
The knitting machine provides a relatively rare record of a woman's cottage industry in rural Victoria in the early 20th century, as well as being a significant item of material culture relating to work for the war effort on the home front during World Wars I and II. The machine collection includes a range of parts, manuals, users' notes, two garments and a (digital copy of a) photograph of a garment being worn, providing a comprehensive record of how the machine was used and for what purposes, and how this changed over time as a second user worked the machine.

Knitting machines were enthusiastically advertised in the media in the early 20th century when this model was purchased, both for making family clothing and as a means of earning money. Hugo Wertheim advertised knitting machines as 'One of the most profitable means by which to earn a livelihood or supplement an income IN YOUR OWN HOME' (The Age, 4/2/1911, page 2).

The first hand-powered flat-bed knitting machine was invented by the American William Isaac Lamb in 1863. The machine enabled rapid production of tube and rib-knitted fabric. It knitted in alternating plain and pearl stitches, providing a ribbed effect with high elasticity that looked the same on both sides. The year after its invention, Lamb's flat-bed knitting machine was improved by another American, Henry J. Griswold. Sold under the names ?Climax?, ?Crane? and ?Little Rapid?, the machines were used in the cottage industry to make men's socks and children's stockings. With further improvements in the machine?s design, circular-knit stockings could also be made.

In Europe, manufacturer Henri Eduard Dubied saw the flat-bed machine displayed at the World Expo in Paris in 1867. He bought the patent and began to make the machines, which he called the ?Trikoteuse Omnibus?, in his own Swiss factory. By the end of the decade French and German manufacturers, including Laue und Timaeus (later Irmscher & Co., Dresden) were also making flat-bed machines. In 1888 the invention of the tubular cam by G. F. Grosser in Markersdorf allowed heels to also be knitted by the flat-bed machines. Later developments facilitated the production of patterned goods and the use of an electric motor.

The Lamb Corporation remains in business to this day.
Acquisition Information:
Donation from Raema Edgington
Discipline: History
Dimensions: 164 mm (Height), 96 mm (Width)
Dimension Comment: Sizes when closed. When opened to a double page the dimensions are: H: 164 mm x 192 mm

More information

Tagged with: world war ii 1939-1945, manufacturing, handcrafts, world war i 1914-1918, rural life, domestic work, knitting patterns, home workers, rural women, knitting machines, soldiers comforts, work in the home
Themes this item is part of: Clothing & Textiles Collection, Public Life & Institutions Collection, Sustainable Futures Collection, Working Life & Trades Collection
Primary Classification: MANUFACTURING & INDUSTRY
Secondary Classification: Textiles
Tertiary Classification: knitting machines
Inscriptions: Extensive
Date Purchased: 1910
Retailer: Hugo Wertheim, Melbourne, Victoria, Australia, 1910
Author: Ruby Fisher, Victoria, Australia, 1910 or later
References: German Hosiery Museum, http://www.german-hosiery-museum.de/technik/06flachstrickmaschinen/flachstrickmaschinen.htm. accessed 14/6/2012
Wonseok Choi, 'Three Dimensional Seamless Garment Knitting on V-Bed Flat Knitting Machines', Journal of Textile and Apparel, Technology and Management, vol.4, no.3, Spring 2005
Alex L. Askariffm Sewalot web site http://www.sewalot.com/wertheim%20superba.htm, accessed 15/6/2012
'Hugo Wertheim', Australian Dictionary of Biography, http://adb.anu.edu.au/biography/wertheim-hugo-13244, accessed 15/6/2012

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